Narrow & Wide Shoulder Adjustments

This is the final fit post before we jump into the sewing!

Generally, the outside finished shoulder seam of a standard sleeved bodice should end at the point of your shoulder – the little knobby bone you can feel if you push on it. A narrow shoulder adjustment may be needed if the dress falls off your shoulders or if the shoulders of your bodice are landing too far to the outside of your shoulder.

Conversely, if you feel that your shoulder seam is too far inside your shoulder, you can do a wide shoulder adjustment to add a little width to your bodice at the shoulder seam. The prep is the same for both.

First, decide how much wider/narrow you’d like the shoulder to be. Remember to account for the 5/8″ seam allowance of the arm hole.

Preparing Pattern Piece

1. On the center front bodice, trace the stitching line of the shoulder seam. Also trace the stitching line of the armscye, down to where it starts to curve sharply.

2.Find the center of your shoulder seam and use a ruler to draw a line from the shoulder center to the sleeve notch. This is line A.

3. Draw a second line starting at the outer corner (cut edge) of the shoulder seam, through the corner of the seam line, to line A. This is line B.
(To clarify, the angle of this line is created by aligning the outer corner and the seam line corner with a ruler.)

4. Carefully cut through line A from the outer edge of the pattern piece to the seam line of the armscye, skipping over the seam line and continue cutting to the end the pattern piece.

5. Cut line B from its meeting point with line A to the seam line, then skip over the seam line and cut to the end of the pattern. “Skipping” over the seam lines will create a small paper hinge.

Broad Shoulder Adjustment

1. Bring an extra piece of paper behind the shoulder seam and tape. Extend the shoulder seam line by the amount you would like to add to the shoulder seam and mark, this is mark C.
2. Bring the other slashed side of line A to mark C and tape in place.

3. Re-draw in seam allowances for the shoulder seam and the very end of the neckline.

Narrow Shoulder Adjustment

1. Towards the left of line A, measure the amount you would like to remove from the shoulder along the shoulder seam line and mark. This is mark C.
2. Bring the other slashed side of line a to mark C and tape in place.

3. Re-draw in seam allowances for the shoulder seam and the very end of the neckline.

Repeat any adjustment you do to the corresponding back bodice piece.

Y’all are such good sports, thanks for hanging in there while we perfect the fit of our Rues.
Next week we will cut out our pattern pieces, prep our fabric, and start sewing!