Hawthorn Version 1, Short Sleeve

Today I am going to add the Version 1 Short Sleeve to my dress. Normally, I am more of a sleeveless kinda gal, but when I picked out my seersucker I got really excited about the bias cut short sleeve cuff and I decided I’d mix and match. Follow along if you’re making short sleeves on your Hawthorn!

Note: If my short sleeve looks extra short, it is because I cut 1.5″ off.

Day 8 Checklist:

• Assemble the Sleeve
• Stitch Cuff to Sleeve
• Set the Sleeves

Assemble the Sleeve

1. On each short sleeve (L), sew three rows of ease stitches between small circles. To do this, set your machine to a long stitch length of 4 – 4.5mm. Stitch one row of ease stitches between circles with a 5/8” allowance. Sew a second row just inside of this row, with a 1/2” seam allowance. Sew a third row with a 3/4” seam allowance. Leave long thread tails.

2. On each short sleeve (L), with right sides together, stitch underarm seams.

3. Finish seams and press open.

Stitch Cuff to Sleeve

1. Fold the cuff in half with right sides together. Stitch the cuff together at the side seam.

2. Press the seam open.

3. On each short sleeve (L), stitch the short sleeve cuff (M) to the sleeve hem. To do this stitch along the bottom edge at 1/4” with the right side of the cuff facing the wrong side of the sleeve.

4. Turn to the right side of the sleeve, and press the seam allowance up towards the sleeve.

5. Press the bottom edge of the cuff under 1/4” towards the wrong side of the cuff and the right side of the sleeve.

6. Press the cuff up towards the right side of the sleeve. The seamline where the cuff and sleeve meet should be along the hem. Pin in place.

7. Edgestitch along the top fold of the cuff.

Set the Sleeves

1. Pull the bobbin threads of your ease stitches.

Definition of Easing: Easing means adjusting the length of an edge so that it can be sewn to a shorter edge. It’s similar to gathering, but you are pulling up less fabric. Whereas the little folds of gathers are easy to see, an eased seam should ideally have no tiny folds or puckers once pressed.

2. With right sides together, insert the short sleeve (L) into the armhole, matching notches and seams.

3. Pin into place, adjusting ease stitches to fit by pulling thread tails. Align the large circle at the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam. Make sure to insert pins from the sleeve side.

Tip: I like to pin through the side seam and work my pins around clockwise. You’ll then sew counterclockwise, removing the pins at you approach.

4. Hand or machine baste the sleeve into the armhole, stitching with the sleeve side on top. This will allow you to watch the easing and make sure no large folds or puckers form as you stitch.

5. Once basted, permanently stitch the sleeve into the armhole. Remove basting.

6. Finish the armhole seam, clipping the inner curves of the underarm seam allowance.

7. Turn the sleeve right side out and press the seam toward the sleeve.

8. Repeat for the second sleeve.