Finishing, hemming, and closures

Both Versions

Toggle Placement

For many women, the toggle marking is going to hit right at the apex of the bust. This will help control bust gaping, but also may draw attention to that area of the body. If you prefer, you can change the placement of the toggles.

1. With your muslin on, decide where you’d like the chest toggle to be placed. Mark or pin the desired placement.

2. Measure and mark placement of the remaining toggles, so that the toggles are
6 1/4″ apart. Transfer new markings to your pattern.

Installing Toggles

While installing toggles might seem self-explanatory, it can actually be quite nerve-racking to try and sew all those little leather half-circles without any pinning. The tips below will save you time and make the process much easier the first time around. We highly recommend using topstitching thread and an edgestitching foot for stitching the toggles in place.

1. Lay the coat flat in front of you. Locate the toggle placement lines on the front of the coat.

2. Locate the center of the front extension. This is the point directly in the center between the hood and edge of the extension.

3. Mark the center of the extension at every toggle placement line. This is where your toggle will be aligned. Connect each pair of toggles by slipping the toggle through the loop. Center the toggle over the toggle placement line, making sure that the toggle is on top of the center extension line.

4. Using a marking pen or chalk, trace around each leather tab. Since you can’t pin through leather, you will now know where to hold your toggle.

5. Use a leather needle and a long stitch length to stitch the toggle in place.

Version 1

Hem Coat

1. Turn the shell hem up 1″ and press, tucking the lining inside the coat hem.

2. Machine stitch the hem in place.

Top Stitch the Center Front

1. Press the center front. Topstitch around all edges of the center front facing (E), stitching 1/4″ from each edge. Be sure to catch the edge of in-seam pocket (I) to secure it in place.

Attach Closures

1. Stitch toggles to the front of the coat, centering them over the placement marks on pieces A and B.

2. Create a buttonhole at the placement mark on each of the two sleeve tabs.

3. Attach buttons to sleeves beneath buttonholes.

4. Create two buttonholes at the placement marks on the hood tab.

5. Attach two buttons at the placement marks on the hood.

6. Remove any remaining basting stitches.

Version 2

Attach Closures

1. Stitch toggles to the front of the jacket, centering them over the placement marks on pieces A and B. Attach toggles by edgestitching around the toggle tabs.

2. Create a buttonhole at the placement mark on each of the two sleeve tabs (L).

3. Attach buttons to sleeves beneath buttonholes.

4. Remove any remaining basting stitches.